It seemed we'd been driving North forever - past Liverpool, Blackpool, and the Lake District - when the undulant, ochre-hued rim of the Cumbrian Mountains came into view ... my first indication that we were nearing the England/Scotland border. Negotiating the narrow, twisting mountain pass was test of nerves, but I was encouraged by the knowledge that we would soon reach Glencoe, proclaimed to be the most beautiful Highland glen in Scotland. We were two hours behind schedule yet I lingered awhile on the viewing deck of the Glencoe Visitor Center, absorbing the atmosphere and marveling at the expansive view of the ancient panorama before me. Little did I know then that even greater beauty lie ahead.
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